They wake up in a little house on the beach by the fjord. After arriving at work, they head out with tourists to see the Northern Lights or guide them on snowshoe hikes through Norway's snowy landscapes with the company of dogs.
Sounds like the start of a rom-com, right? But for Slovaks Linda and Slavo, that's everyday life. They're polar light guides in northern Norway. After college, they decided to try living abroad, and serendipity led them to their dream job.
"Even when I was in school, I was really drawn to going abroad. During classes, I was online looking at flights and mountains. I initially thought it would be just for a short time," says Linda, who first went to Switzerland for work.
"I met Slavo through my sister, and when I saw on Instagram that he was in Norway, I was intrigued and wrote to him," she explains. Slavo had a similar story. After studying engineering in Slovakia, he worked in marketing and as a photographer but soon decided to try his luck beyond the borders with his friends.
- How they became guides for the northern lights.
- Whether driving a dog sled is challenging and the skills needed for the job.
- What life is like on Kvaløya Island.
- Their monthly expenses and how much they earn.
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They Asked If I Like Dogs
"We had no clue how to find a job abroad, so we reached out to an agency to help us out. I thought they'd offer us typical service jobs, but instead, they asked if I like dogs," he says with a laugh.
From that innocuous question, an intriguing job offer emerged "at the end of the world." Near Tromsø, in northern Norway, they were offered a chance to be northern lights guides. Besides, Linda and Slavo also care for the dogs and engage in dogsledding rides, another attraction the center offers. "And since I'm an astrophotographer, having taken viral shots of the aurora in Slovakia, I didn't hesitate," says Slavo.
The online friendship between Linda and Slavo blossomed into a relationship, and it was only a matter of time before Linda also headed to Norway. "Supervisors usually go on recommendations from a trusted employee, so they hired me," Linda shares.
Even though the job is a fun and valuable experience for them, they also appreciate the decent earnings. Their shared living cost with two other colleagues is around 250 euros each. "We try to cook for ourselves. Fuel is another major expense. We manage to keep it around 600 euros per person monthly," Linda explains.
"In Slovakia, after graduating, you'd earn about 1000 euros net, maybe 1100. Here, with a standard 160-hour work month, you earn at least 3000 euros net. You don't work that hard for it; you're outside with the dogs – it's like volunteering but well-paid," Slavo mentions.
People here aren't marginalized; everyone has enough. They have free quality education and healthcare. They know the state invests their money effectively. Unlike us, who celebrate a single tunnel.
What You Need to Know to Land Such a Job
What does it take to get a job as a northern light guide? Slavo explains that being unafraid of speaking and explaining to larger groups is key. Decent, though not perfect, English skills are essential. An interest in nature and animals is also a plus. The rest you can learn on the job.
Their role isn't just to provide an experience but also to offer tourists interesting info and ensure their safety. Part of their job includes "driving" dog sleds, which tourists can also try out.
For some dogs, the pull is so strong they can drag a person along. And when it's a bit downhill, it looks like a comedy – a person falls on snowshoes, can't walk properly, and the dog pulls them downhill.
"Experienced mushers handle strong sleds with up to 14 dogs. But tourists get weaker ones with a max of 6 dogs. We give them a quick training, but it sometimes ends humorously. If the terrain is uneven or icy, they can easily overturn. Asian tourists mostly struggle with it, and even with walking on snow," laughs Slavo. "We teach them never to let go of the sled, or the dogs will run off on their own, and we have to chase them in the snow," he explains.
A dog sled is essentially a small sled pulled by a team of dogs, usually huskies or malamutes, driven by a musher standing at the back. It's a traditional means of transport in Nordic countries, but today it's mostly a sport. "Currently, in Norway, it's more of a sport or a way to experience a traditional historical trip. It's no longer a necessity. No one rides sleds to the store here," Slavo explains.
Pulling Is in Their DNA
"But many here have adopted such a dog. Since roads are constantly icy and there's always at least a thin snow cover, they take small sleds, harness one dog, and go for walks. It's necessary exercise for the dog and fun for the person," adds Linda.
At the center where Linda and Slavo work, they have Alaskan huskies. They're not a pure breed but working dogs, so appearance isn't crucial – health and strength are. "Since they're not purebred, each looks a bit different, unique – you never know which gene will be stronger. They're a mix of polar and hunting dogs, perfect for harsh snowy conditions and excellent runners. They're among the best long-distance dogs in the world," says Linda.
They have pulling coded in their DNA. "This dog will never walk beside a person; it'll just pull them. When we do snowshoe hikes, we give our guests regular belts; otherwise, their arms would hurt. For some dogs, the pull is so strong they can drag a person along. And when it's a bit downhill, it looks like a comedy scene – a person falls on snowshoes, can't walk properly, and the dog pulls them downhill," the duo describes with laughter.
They Can Cover Hundreds of Kilometers Daily
For these dogs, movement and pulling are essential daily, but overworking them isn't an option. It all depends on age, health, and condition. Experienced leaders know exactly how much each dog can handle – younger ones may only run one round daily, while more energetic ones might run three. Dogs working with tourists cover about 40 to 60 kilometers daily. Racing dogs, which want and can run more and undergo more intense training, can cover 100 to 200 kilometers a day. Here, predisposition, age, condition, discipline, and training matter.
Competitive dogs can handle up to 1200 kilometers. Their 68-year-old boss is preparing for such a demanding race for the twentieth time. "At the start, she must have at least 14 dogs and finish with at least six. Along the route, there are checkpoints to check the dogs for fatigue and injuries, give them food and massages for regeneration for the next day," they explain. "For mushers, the day doesn’t end upon reaching a checkpoint. They must care for the dogs, check the gear, and prep everything to continue. They might only sleep two to four hours before setting off the next morning," they explain. Dogs must be well cared for, and they even get protective booties for ice.
We can only offer tourists weaker teams with up to 6 dogs. We give them a quick training course, but it sometimes ends humorously. If the terrain is uneven or icy, they can easily overturn. Asian tourists mostly have issues with it, struggling even with walking on snow.
Northern Finland and Norway are well-known tourist hotspots for witnessing the northern lights. This breathtaking natural phenomenon occurs when charged solar particles interact with Earth's magnetic field and atmosphere. It's best viewed in the mentioned polar areas, but weather and light pollution also significantly affect visibility.
Seeing the Northern Lights Isn’t Guaranteed
Tourists heading north for this spectacle should be aware that they might not see the aurora, leading to some disappointment. "There are tourists with extremely unrealistic expectations who ask us what time it'll happen – like we can control it. But I think most tourists are pretty understanding. It's hard to stay mad when cute dogs are around. That helps ease the atmosphere," says Slavo.
"There are guests who flew in from America, telling me they're here for the second or third time trying to see it, and still haven’t succeeded. Then some people come for three days and see phenomenal auroras every day," adds Linda.
If tourists are desperate to see the aurora, one option is to book trips to even more remote areas, like near the Finnish border, or take a night sightseeing flight. This way, they get above the clouds that obstructed their view from the ground.
Apps Can Be Wrong
The young guides advise keeping an eye on the weather or apps that inform about aurora visibility. But the weather is unpredictable, and forecasts aren’t 100% reliable. "It’s much about luck and patience. Sometimes nothing happens for a long time, and someone heads indoors, ready to give up – and just five minutes later, a beautiful display might start. You really need to hang in there and be patient. But when three of the best colors appear in the sky – green, white, and pink – it's almost psychedelic. Then everyone shares that moment, and you hear spontaneous 'wow's," Slavo says.
Even though they plan to visit family and friends in Slovakia over the summer, there's work at the center even off-season. "During that time, we need to take care of the dogs and perform necessary maintenance on the center," they explain.
Besides work, the couple also praises life on Kvaløya Island near Tromsø. The island has tranquility, and while most services and shops are a few minutes away from their place, unlimited natural opportunities make up for it. "Almost everyone spends time in nature; you can always find someone to plan an activity with. Nearly every Norwegian goes ski touring because it's so accessible – practically everywhere behind their houses," Linda says.
Norwegians Know Their State Invests Effectively
They admire how Norwegians maintain a work-life balance. Linda and Slavo notice that, compared to other countries, they don’t feel significant economic disparities in Norway. "Of course, some earn more, some less, which is normal, but people aren’t marginalized; everyone has enough. This is crucial for a functioning society. They have free quality education and healthcare. They know the state invests their money effectively. Unlike us, who get excited about a single tunnel," Slavo says.
Initially planning a short foreign stint, a return for them seems increasingly unlikely now. "The only thing we won’t have here is family, so that’s the only factor pulling us home, but otherwise, we see more positives in Norway," Linda explains.
The young couple encourages everyone to not be afraid and try out life abroad. Such an experience, they say, offers not just valuable life lessons but also new perspectives on the world and oneself. "It's never too late to change your life," they conclude.
